13.12.2022
Early in the morning we set off in the direction of the Ötztal Alps. The backpack is packed, with crampons, ropes, and down clothing. The sky is overcast, and the hope for the first rays of sunshine is high. Temperatures of 0 degrees Celsius and light fog let small snowflakes freeze into crystals. I get to share this unique atmosphere with my father Alfred, brother Vincent and friend Bene.
This was the motto of the first joint glacier tour on the Wildspitze. As so often in mountaineering, this tour was once again only feasible with a good team performance. The first snow and strong wind had only moderately covered the crevasses, both on the ascent and on the descent, we decided to stay on the rope to avoid a crevasse fall. The strong reported wind should later mix, not as expected with sun, but clouds and fog, which demanded this glacier tour physical but especially mental strength.
After a few joint ski tours in the backcountry, it was also to be the first high altitude tour for my brother and business partner Vincent. Already at the top station of the Mittelbergbahn, the mountain showed its rough side. Strong and ice-cold wind blew around our ears. Luckily, the ascent to the Wildspitze is largely in the lee. Arrived at the Taschachferner we tracked our way towards the ski depot. During this time, the cloud base dropped significantly, so we arrived at the ridge in poor visibility and hammering wind. A decision of principle was at hand: Continue and defy the weather? Turn around and retreat?
Wrapped in Gore Tex suit and two down jackets I observe the situation, in the faces of my mountain companions is reflected hope and willpower, no trace of doubt is visible. We start on the last 150 meters of altitude and carefully climb the ridge towards the summit. Gusts make walking difficult. Not only once do we stagger back a step, carried by the wind. Noses and cheeks covered with a layer of ice, we all reach the summit together. What a feeling, as a team, family, and friends to be the only ones on this breathtaking summit today.
With the mindset that we still have half of the way to go, we make our way back. In total whiteout, we struggle back with difficulty. Again and again, we take breaks and I try to orient myself by the shadowy contours in the fog. The return ascent to the ski area should finally prove to be the last challenge. The icy skins no longer stick to the skis, and the last meters turn out to be extremely exhausting. I take over the backpack from Vincent, who is increasingly approaching his physical and mental limits. In the end, exhausted but happy and together, we reach the gondola that should take us back to the car.
I have reached the summit of North Tyrol's highest mountain a total of six times to date. From the north face, ski descent of the northwest gully or the east - west traverse I have experienced some challenging tours on this shapely mountain. The challenging weather situation made the ascent via the normal route on this day a particularly punishing tour.
The above guiding principle I would like to dedicate to my brother, who deserves special recognition on this tour. His current highest mountain, combined with the thin air, the first time on a glacier, extreme weather conditions, the first time descending on skis on a rope. Each of the above is a great challenge itself, that many people only face gradually.
To master this in combination is an outstanding achievement, made possible by awareness of one's own strength and trust in a strong team. With the goal in mind to reach this summit together today, Team Performance was the first priority.
